Things I couldn't talk about - Part 2

Unlike my previous blog on the Baku police, I could have written about the following topic while in Baku and without fear of harm, but I chose to delay the subject, as to not seem too critical or harsh toward Baku. I made many acquaintances while living internationally, several who were local Kazak, Azeri or of Russian descent and while living in their countries, I hated to seem ungrateful for their friendship and hospitality. With some distance and time between us, it's now less of a concern.

One of the first things you notice when driving into Baku city from the airport is the fine walls and impeccable landscaping that line the highway.  And as the drive continues along the busiest street in town, the Bulvar, it is the same sight - palm trees that do not naturally grow in Baku, lush grasses, nicely crafted retaining walls and cobblestone walkways.  And then you walk one block into the center of the city and it's heart-wrenching.  "How can people even live like this?"

The rumor among expats was that Azerbaijan wants to put in a bid to host the Olympics, which seems ludicrous knowing first hand that Baku, the largest city, is completely inefficient.  But according to this gossip, that is why the government is putting a new facade on everything.  It's all for show.  Old, decrepit buildings are given a "face lift" by making the street side seem new and modern, but the interiors are left to literally rot.  And don't even get me started on the 10-mile long wall that randomly runs on the outskirts of town.  I think they are trying to hide the slums that can be viewed from the highway.

Section of wall "hiding" an apartment building

The saddest part is that instead of investing in the future of the city, by actually fixing things, they are throwing money in the wind and making the masses even more resentful.  In referring to Baku, our British friend said, "What a soul-crushing place." To see your government building a ridiculous wall while the city crumbles behind it, must truly be maddening.